How to DIY accordion pleats?
I'm trying to make a dress that has a accordion pleated bottom. I know you can buy special fabric that already comes pleated, but i can't find it where i live and i'm running out on time. In addition to making the pleats, what is the best fabric to use so the pleats will stay in place?
--THANKS!
You'll want to use a lightweight fabric with at least some synthetic content if you want to keep them "pressed in" without a lot of work.
Not quite sure what you mean by "accordian pleats" -- I think you mean knife pleats:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Knife_pleat.jpg If so, you may be able to find someone with a pleating tool like this:
http://www.clotilde.com/detail.html?prod_id=1711 or http://www.clotilde.com/detail.html?prod_id=1712
This is suitable only for very lightweight fabrics... blouse weight fabric, lining weight fabrics like batiste or lawn or lightweight shirtings.
Or if you want small pleats for smocking, look for someone who has one of these sorts of gadgets:
http://www.smockingstore.com/pleaters.html These only handle lightweight fabrics.
When you're pressing in pleats, use steam and a pounding block to help set the pleats. Don't move the pressed fabric until it's cool (all the way back to room temperature! Not even slightly warm!) and completely dry. That will help retain the shape of the pleat.
On heavier fabrics or fabrics that don't hold a press well (like linen), you can edgestitch the pleat. Press in the pleat, let it cool, then stitch the edge of the folded fabric together with a longish straight stitch in matching thread, about 1/16 inch from the folded edge. Or, if you don't like the look of edge stitched pleats, sew down the center of the fold through a single thickness. That way, you can find the places to fold and press when you iron.
Or are you thinking of cartridge pleats: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/
On the off chance that you don't have to have geometric pleats, consider fake Fortuny pleating:
http://www.costumes.org/classes/254pages/projects/fortunyfake2.htm
The real stuff: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQd2Az3sFA8
And finally, if you have enough lead time, you can send fabric to places like San Francisco Pleating or Advance Pleating and get a choice of pleating styles -- e.g.: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/pleating/ -- if you watch Project Runway, you'll often hear one of the designers in the finals turning in receipts for San Francisco Pleating.
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